Discovering Urawa’s Unagi: A Hidden Culinary Tradition in Saitama’s Historic Heart
Hello, fellow explorers and culinary adventurers! This is Japanist, your guide to the truly secret corners of Japan, bringing you insights that go far beyond the typical tourist trails. Today, we’re embarking on a delectable journey to Saitama Prefecture, a region often overlooked by international visitors rushing to Tokyo, yet brimming with its own unique charms and hidden gems. Specifically, we’re diving deep into the heart of Urawa, a district within Saitama City, to uncover a culinary tradition that has flourished for centuries: Unagi, or freshwater eel. While many associate unagi with specific regions like Hamamatsu, Urawa holds a particularly special place in the history of this revered dish, boasting a legacy that is both rich and surprisingly obscure to the wider world. This isn’t just about eating a meal; it’s about experiencing a piece of Japan’s enduring gastronomic heritage, preserved in a place that has maintained its authentic character. Prepare to discover why Urawa’s unagi is not just food, but a profound cultural experience waiting to be savored.
Urawa’s Unagi: A Legacy Steeped in Flavor and Tradition
The story of Urawa and its unagi is as deep and flavorful as the eels themselves. Urawa, once a crucial post town along the Edo-era Nakasendo highway connecting Edo (Tokyo) with Kyoto, naturally became a hub for weary travelers seeking sustenance and rest. What made Urawa particularly renowned for its unagi? It wasn’t just its strategic location. The area was blessed with abundant, clean water from the nearby Tone River and Ara River, which provided an ideal environment for freshwater eels to thrive. Local fishermen developed sophisticated techniques for catching these eels, and soon, inns and restaurants in Urawa began serving them, establishing a reputation that spread throughout the region.
The culinary art of unagi in Urawa is deeply rooted in the Kanto-style preparation method. Unlike the Kansai-style, which involves grilling the eel directly after it’s cut open, the Kanto method adds an extra, crucial step: steaming. First, the eel is split open from the back, carefully deboned, and then skewered. It’s then lightly grilled to give it some structure before being transferred to a steamer. This steaming process is where the magic truly happens; it serves to render out excess fat and make the flesh incredibly tender and fluffy. After steaming, the eel is returned to the grill, where it’s repeatedly basted with a secret, savory-sweet tare (sauce) and grilled until perfectly caramelized and glistening. This two-stage cooking process results in a texture that is melt-in-your-mouth soft, with a delicate crispness on the outside, a stark contrast to the slightly chewier Kansai-style eel.
Many unagi restaurants in Urawa are venerable establishments, some having been in continuous operation for over a century. These are not flashy, modern eateries, but rather traditional spaces where time seems to slow down, allowing you to fully appreciate the heritage of the dish. When you step into one of these establishments, you’re not just a customer; you’re a participant in a long-standing tradition. The interior often features tatami mat seating, wooden decor, and a quiet, contemplative atmosphere, all contributing to an authentic Japanese dining experience.
What sets Urawa’s unagi apart even further is the meticulous attention to every detail, from the selection of the freshest eels to the crafting of the house-specific tare sauce. Each restaurant prides itself on its unique tare, often a closely guarded family secret passed down through generations. This sauce, typically a blend of soy sauce, mirin, sugar, and sake, absorbs the rich umami of the grilled eel over years, sometimes even decades, becoming deeper and more complex with each batch. The consistency of the sauce, its precise balance of sweet and savory, and its ability to perfectly complement the delicate eel meat are what truly define an unagi master.
Beyond the classic unagi-ju (grilled eel served over rice in a lacquered box) or unagi-don (eel over rice in a bowl), many restaurants offer a variety of other unagi dishes. You might find shirayaki, which is eel grilled without any sauce, allowing you to savor the natural flavor of the eel itself, often enjoyed with a sprinkle of salt or wasabi. Then there’s kimoyaki (grilled eel liver skewers) or umaki (eel rolled in an omelet), which offer delightful variations. The accompanying clear soup, kimosui, usually contains a piece of eel liver and a distinct citrus aroma, providing a refreshing counterpoint to the rich unagi. Dining on unagi is an experience for all senses – the aroma of grilling eel, the soft texture, the savory sweetness of the tare, and the serene ambiance.
To truly appreciate Urawa’s unagi, consider visiting the area during local festivals or combining your culinary adventure with a visit to the nearby Saitama Museum of Modern Art, located within the beautiful Kita-Urawa Park. Or, perhaps, a visit to Tsuki Jinja Shrine (つきじんじゃ), often called “Usagi Jinja” (Rabbit Shrine) because of its numerous rabbit statues. Interestingly, this shrine also has a deep connection to unagi, as it is said that the shrine’s pond was once teeming with eels, and the annual “Unagi Festival” held in July celebrates this connection. While the festival itself is a vibrant community event, the real secret of Urawa’s unagi lies in the everyday dedication of its artisans to preserving a truly exceptional culinary heritage.
Urawa’s Unagi: A Culinary Journey Not to Be Missed
Urawa’s unagi is more than just a meal; it is an invitation to explore a profound aspect of Japanese culinary tradition that remains delightfully off the beaten path. It offers a taste of authentic Japan, far from the bustling crowds of typical tourist hotspots. By choosing to seek out the rich, tender, and deeply flavorful unagi of Urawa, you are not only indulging in a remarkable culinary experience but also connecting with the history, craftsmanship, and local pride that define this often-overlooked corner of Saitama. It’s a chance to savor not just exquisite food, but the very essence of a secret Japan, where time-honored traditions continue to thrive. So, next time you find yourself in the Kanto region, venture just a short distance north of Tokyo and allow Urawa’s unagi to captivate your senses and leave you with an unforgettable memory. It’s a true hidden treasure, waiting for you to discover its succulent secrets.
Japanist’s Japanese Trivia Corner: Fascinating Facts About Unagi and Saitama
Did you know that unagi has a special day in Japan? The “Doyo-no-Ushi no Hi” (土用の丑の日), or Day of the Ox during the midsummer “Doyo” period, is traditionally when Japanese people eat unagi to gain strength and stamina for the hot summer months. This tradition is said to have been popularized by Hiraga Gennai, an 18th-century scholar and inventor, who advised an unagi seller struggling with poor sales to put up a sign saying “Today is Doyo-no-Ushi no Hi!” It worked, and the custom caught on!
Also, while unagi is a freshwater eel, there’s also anago (アナゴ), which is a saltwater conger eel. Anago is typically lighter in flavor and texture than unagi, often served as tempura or sushi, and prepared with a lighter, sweeter sauce. Many mistakenly think they are the same, but they are distinctly different creatures, each with its own culinary niche!
And for a fun fact about Saitama: Did you know that Saitama Prefecture is home to Omiya Bonsai Village (大宮盆栽村)? Established in 1925 by bonsai growers who moved from Tokyo after the Great Kanto Earthquake, it is considered one of the world’s premier centers for bonsai art. It’s a serene and beautiful place to explore the intricate world of miniature trees, showcasing another fascinating, tranquil art form that flourishes in Saitama!
