Welcome to Secret Japan! Discovering Okunoshima
Hello, fellow adventurers and seekers of authentic Japanese experiences! Welcome back to Secret Japan, your premier guide to the hidden gems and untold stories of this incredible country. While the bustling streets of Tokyo and the ancient temples of Kyoto undoubtedly hold their own charm, I, your humble Japanist, believe that the true magic of Japan often lies off the beaten path, in places where the vibrant pulse of local life and the whispers of history truly come alive. Today, we’re embarking on a journey to one such place – an island that promises an encounter unlike any other, a destination so uniquely adorable yet steeped in a profound past. We’re talking about Okunoshima, affectionately known worldwide as “Rabbit Island,” nestled in the serene Seto Inland Sea, part of Hiroshima Prefecture.
You might have seen captivating images circulating online: hundreds, if not thousands, of fluffy, friendly rabbits hopping freely, greeting visitors with inquisitive nudges and twitching noses. Yes, this is that island. But Okunoshima is much more than just a haven for adorable bunnies. It’s a place of startling contrasts, where the overwhelming cuteness coexists with a solemn history, offering a rare opportunity to reflect on humanity’s past while delighting in nature’s gentle embrace. Before we delve into the heart of this charming secret, let me set the stage. Okunoshima is a small, uninhabited island – save for its furry residents and the staff of a single resort – that has transformed from a top-secret military site into a symbol of peace and ecological harmony. Its unique story is what makes it an unmissable stop for anyone looking beyond the typical tourist trails. So, prepare your cameras and open your hearts; Okunoshima is ready to reveal its layered wonders.
Unveiling the Charms of Okunoshima: The Rabbit Island Experience
Stepping off the ferry onto Okunoshima feels like entering a different world. The air is fresh, carrying the scent of the sea, and almost immediately, you’ll be greeted by a furry welcoming committee. These aren’t shy, elusive creatures; the rabbits of Okunoshima are remarkably tame and accustomed to human presence, often approaching visitors with an endearing curiosity. Their playful antics and gentle nudges are what make the island so captivating for many.
Let’s address the most common question: Why are there so many rabbits on Okunoshima? While the exact origin story is shrouded in a bit of mystery, the most widely accepted theory is that a group of school children released eight rabbits on the island in 1971. With no natural predators on the island and an abundance of green spaces, these few rabbits quickly multiplied, creating the thriving population we see today. Another theory suggests that the rabbits are descendants of those used for chemical weapons testing, released after the end of World War II, though this is less substantiated. Regardless of their true lineage, these hundreds of rabbits now freely roam the entire island, from the beaches to the hillsides, making every path an opportunity for an encounter.
Interacting with these charming inhabitants is, for many, the highlight of their visit. Visitors are encouraged to feed the rabbits, but there are important rules to follow to ensure their well-being. It is crucial to bring rabbit food with you (available at convenience stores or ferry terminals before you depart, as there are limited options on the island itself). Never feed them human food, and avoid overfeeding. More importantly, do not pick up the rabbits, chase them, or cause them any distress. They are wild animals, albeit friendly ones, and observing them respectfully is key. Often, the best interactions occur when you sit quietly and allow them to approach you. Many visitors also bring small bottles of water with a shallow dish to offer water to the rabbits, especially on hot days, as freshwater sources are scarce for them. Seeing them quench their thirst is a truly heartwarming experience.
Beyond the undeniable cuteness of the rabbits, Okunoshima carries a much heavier, yet equally important, historical narrative. During World War II, this tranquil island served as a top-secret chemical weapons manufacturing site for the Imperial Japanese Army. From 1929 to 1945, the island produced over 6,000 tons of poison gas, including mustard gas and tear gas. The secrecy surrounding this operation was so intense that Okunoshima was even removed from maps. Today, remnants of this dark past stand as solemn reminders: the eerie, crumbling ruins of the power plant, abandoned gas storage facilities, and testing laboratories. These structures, now overgrown with vegetation, create a stark, almost haunting contrast to the playful atmosphere created by the rabbits.
To understand this crucial aspect of the island’s identity, a visit to the Poison Gas Museum (Dokusun Gasu Shiryokan) is essential. Located near the main ferry terminal, this small but impactful museum provides a detailed, sobering account of the island’s role in chemical warfare, the devastating effects of the gases, and a powerful plea for peace and nuclear disarmament. It’s a poignant experience that balances the joy of interacting with the rabbits with a deeper reflection on history and human responsibility. This dual nature – a place of healing and delight, juxtaposed with a site of profound historical significance – is what makes Okunoshima truly unique and profoundly moving.
But Okunoshima is not solely about rabbits and history. The island is also a beautiful natural retreat. There’s a pleasant cycling path that circles the island, providing picturesque views of the Seto Inland Sea, famous for its numerous small islands dotting the horizon. Bicycle rentals are available at the Kyukamura Okunoshima, the island’s only hotel and resort. Along the path, you’ll discover other points of interest such as a historic lighthouse, several observation decks offering panoramic vistas, and small, secluded beaches perfect for a moment of quiet contemplation. The island’s vegetation is lush, providing cool, shaded spots, and the air is remarkably clean, making it an ideal place for a leisurely stroll or a refreshing bike ride.
For those wishing to extend their stay, the Kyukamura Okunoshima National Park Resort offers comfortable accommodation, a restaurant serving local specialties, and even a small onsen (hot spring bath). It’s an excellent base from which to explore the island at a more relaxed pace, allowing you to fully soak in the unique atmosphere without feeling rushed. Imagine waking up to the gentle sounds of the sea, stepping outside, and being greeted by a family of rabbits just outside your door.
Getting to Okunoshima is part of the adventure. The island is accessible by a short ferry ride from Tadanoumi Port in Takehara City, Hiroshima Prefecture. Tadanoumi Port itself is easily reached by train, offering a scenic journey along the coast. The entire trip from major cities like Hiroshima or Osaka is manageable as a day trip, though I highly recommend spending at least one night to truly appreciate the island’s dual nature and natural beauty.
Your Unforgettable Journey to Okunoshima Awaits
Okunoshima is truly a destination that defies simple categorization. It’s far more than just “Rabbit Island” as it’s often known globally. It’s a place where the overwhelming joy of interacting with hundreds of friendly, free-roaming rabbits harmoniously exists alongside a deeply significant and sobering historical narrative. It offers a unique blend of nature’s innocence and the heavy weight of human history, prompting visitors to experience both pure delight and thoughtful reflection.
As your Japanist, I can assure you that a visit to Okunoshima is an enriching experience that will stay with you long after you’ve left its shores. It serves as a beautiful testament to the power of nature to reclaim and heal, while also reminding us of the importance of remembering and learning from the past. Whether you’re a wildlife enthusiast, a history buff, or simply someone looking for an offbeat adventure that touches both the heart and the mind, Okunoshima offers an unparalleled journey. So, the next time you plan your travels to Japan, consider venturing beyond the well-trodden paths. Discover this adorable secret, embrace its complex beauty, and let the rabbits of Okunoshima hop their way into your memories. This is one secret I’m thrilled to share with you!
Japan’s Little Wonders: A Fun Fact About Rabbits in Japan
Did you know that rabbits hold a special place in Japanese folklore and culture, far beyond their adorable presence on Okunoshima? One of the most beloved and widely recognized myths is that of the “Rabbit in the Moon” (Tsuki no Usagi). Unlike the Western perception of a “Man in the Moon,” Japanese folklore depicts a rabbit pounding mochi (rice cakes) on the lunar surface.
This charming legend originates from Buddhist tales, particularly one about a rabbit who sacrificed himself to feed a hungry old man (who was actually a deity in disguise). As a reward for his selfless act, the deity enshrined the rabbit on the moon. This imagery of a rabbit diligently pounding mochi is especially prominent during the autumn moon-viewing festival, Tsukimi, when families gather to admire the full moon and eat mochi. This cultural association often imbues rabbits with symbols of diligence, selflessness, and good fortune, adding another layer of charm to the already endearing creatures you’ll find hopping freely on Okunoshima. It’s just one more example of how deeply nature and fascinating tales are intertwined in the rich tapestry of Japanese life.
