Unveiling Kamakura’s Hidden Gems: A Journey Beyond the Surface
Hello fellow Japan enthusiasts! Welcome back to Secret Japan, your gateway to the lesser-known wonders of this incredible country. Today, we’re venturing to a place that often dances on the edges of traveler’s itineraries – Kamakura. While its iconic temples and the Great Buddha are undoubtedly captivating, Kamakura possesses a soul that extends far beyond its famous landmarks. We’re not here to diminish the allure of Hasedera or Tsurugaoka Hachimangu; instead, we aim to peel back the layers, delving into the city’s more intimate corners, particularly its serene and contemplative Zen gardens. These are not just meticulously arranged stones and plants; they are windows into the very heart of Japanese philosophy and aesthetics, often overlooked but absolutely essential for understanding Kamakura’s true spirit. Prepare to embark on a journey of quiet discovery, as we uncover the hidden history and peaceful sanctuaries that define Kamakura beyond the usual tourist trail. We’ll explore why these gardens are more than just visually pleasing, revealing their historical context, the mindful practices they embody, and how they contribute to Kamakura’s unique cultural tapestry.
Kamakura’s Zen Sanctuaries: A Deeper Dive
Kamakura, a city steeped in history, served as Japan’s political center during the Kamakura Shogunate (1185-1333). This period left an indelible mark on the city, most notably through the proliferation of Zen Buddhism, which was embraced by the ruling warrior class. Unlike the more elaborate gardens designed for pleasure, the Zen gardens in Kamakura are spaces for contemplation and meditation, reflecting the austere principles of Zen philosophy. These gardens, often found within temple complexes, are not merely landscapes; they are tools for achieving spiritual enlightenment and inner peace. Our exploration takes us into the heart of some of Kamakura’s most enchanting yet often overlooked Zen gardens. One of the key aspects of the Zen gardens in Kamakura is their use of borrowed scenery, known as “shakkei.” This technique integrates the surrounding landscape—mountains, trees, and even the sky—into the garden’s design, blurring the line between the created and the natural. The borrowed scenery is not just about what you can see outside the garden, it’s about the feeling you have, that the garden is not contained, it’s part of the bigger picture. The gardens’ designs, though varied, all share several common elements: raked gravel representing water, carefully placed stones symbolizing mountains or islands, and minimal use of vegetation, all contributing to their tranquil and uncluttered atmosphere.
Let’s start with **Hōkoku-ji Temple**, often referred to as the Bamboo Temple. While its bamboo grove is what most people know it for, the temple’s small Zen garden, tucked away in a corner, is a masterpiece of understated elegance. The garden is composed of a few stones and a minimalist landscape, designed for quiet contemplation. The way it contrasts with the bamboo grove makes it even more special. The simplicity of this garden is what makes it so profound; it’s a place where you can truly disconnect and reflect. Moving on to **Engaku-ji Temple**, a sprawling Zen complex known for its numerous sub-temples and expansive grounds, you’ll find several meticulously kept Zen gardens scattered throughout. Each garden varies subtly in style and design but they all embody the essence of Zen. One notable feature is the use of moss which helps create a sense of time and history. The quietness inside these gardens is something that you can only experience. The gardens in Engaku-ji, with their serene layouts, invite the viewer to slow down and enter a state of mindfulness.
Another gem is **Kencho-ji Temple**, the first ranked of the five great Zen temples of Kamakura. The main garden here is relatively large, providing a lot of space for contemplative walks. As you walk through Kencho-ji you will encounter various sub-gardens each with their own unique look and purpose. The juxtaposition of meticulously raked gravel and natural elements like trees and moss is captivating. The gardens at Kencho-ji exemplify the art of Zen landscape design, using each stone and plant as a tool for guiding the mind towards inner peace. Then there’s **Jochiji Temple**, which is a hidden gem. Tucked into a hillside, its main garden is a masterclass in the use of natural topography to enhance the sense of tranquility. The gardens here feel like an intimate space, where you are alone with nature. The design is such that it encourages a reflective experience; you’re not just observing; you’re engaging with the space on a deeper level. Jochiji feels like one of the most secluded places in Kamakura and this adds to the calming influence of the garden. Lastly, we have **Zuisen-ji Temple**, which is known for its beautiful hillside garden. This garden has a unique layout in that the stones and moss-covered ground rise up the hillside. This makes the garden feel much larger than it is and also gives a great view of the landscape surrounding the temple. The garden at Zuisen-ji is not just designed to be beautiful, it’s designed to be a place of spiritual significance. The layout, the materials, and the placement of each element are there to enhance the meditative experience. These gardens are not just static landscapes; they’re living, breathing environments that change with the seasons and the time of day. Each visit offers a new experience, another layer of understanding into the philosophy they represent.
Exploring these gardens offers more than just visual enjoyment; it’s a chance to connect with the historical and spiritual heart of Kamakura. These are places where time seems to slow down and you can take a breath and think. You may not come to Kamakura seeking Zen gardens, but once you have taken the time to look, you won’t leave without appreciating them. The practice of mindful viewing, or “kansho,” is deeply embedded in Japanese culture and is particularly important in the appreciation of Zen gardens. It is not enough to simply look at these gardens. To truly appreciate them, one must engage all senses and adopt a meditative approach, allowing the garden to affect your inner state, not just your visual perception. As you sit or walk through a Zen garden, try to notice the interplay of light and shadow, the texture of the gravel, the subtle scent of the plants and soil and the feel of the gentle breeze. These gardens are designed to engage all your senses and bring you to the present moment. They’re not meant to be rushed; rather, they are meant to be experienced slowly.
Reflecting on Kamakura’s Quiet Beauty
Kamakura’s Zen gardens offer an alternative perspective on this historical city, away from the bustling crowds and famous landmarks. They provide a space for peace and reflection, allowing us to connect with the quieter, more spiritual side of Japanese culture. Beyond the visual appeal, these gardens are designed to encourage a sense of mindfulness, inviting visitors to slow down and reflect on the present moment. The design of each garden is the result of centuries of thought, care and tradition. It is not just the arrangement of stones and plants; it is a composition designed to create a place for peace. These gardens are an important part of Kamakura’s heritage, reflecting the values of Zen Buddhism that were embraced by the city’s ruling class during the Kamakura period. In each of these gardens, there is a feeling of something that is bigger than ourselves. This is not only a physical experience but a spiritual experience too. While the main tourist attractions of Kamakura offer a glimpse into its past, the Zen gardens provide a deeper understanding of the city’s soul. They are not just places to see, but places to experience and to contemplate. By exploring these hidden sanctuaries, you’re not just visiting a garden, you’re partaking in a tradition that’s been passed down for generations. So, next time you plan a trip to Kamakura, make sure you allow time to slow down and experience the serene beauty of its Zen gardens. It might just be the most memorable part of your journey.
A Little Japanese Trivia
Did you know that the practice of raking gravel in Zen gardens, often called “samon,” is not just for aesthetic appeal? It’s a meditative practice in itself. The rhythmic motion of raking the gravel is intended to focus the mind, creating a state of mindfulness similar to meditation. The patterns that are formed in the gravel can have different meanings, often representing waves or flowing water. There are some monks who spend hours each day raking these gardens as a spiritual discipline. Also, many of the stones in these gardens are said to have a spirit or energy that can influence the spiritual wellbeing of the garden. It’s why each stone is carefully selected and thoughtfully placed, and not just for visual purposes. So, when you’re next in a Japanese garden, remember that every element has a deeper story to tell, reflecting the harmony between nature and the human spirit.
