Unveiling Japan’s Hidden Spiritual Sanctuaries
Greetings, fellow adventurers and seekers of authentic Japan! As your trusted Japanist from Secret Japan, I’m thrilled to guide you off the well-trodden paths and into the very heart of Japan’s profound spiritual heritage. Our mission at Secret Japan is to reveal the unseen, the unheard, and the truly transformative experiences that lie hidden beneath the surface of this incredible nation. Today, we embark on an extraordinary journey to explore two distinct yet equally captivating spiritual realms: the ancient ascetic practices of Tsuruoka and the Dewa Sanzan, and the enigmatic island of Tsushima, a land steeped in history and mystical allure.
Forget the crowded temples and typical tourist traps; what we’re about to uncover are places where time-honored traditions persist, where nature’s majesty intertwines with human devotion, and where the echoes of ancient prayers still resonate. These are not merely destinations; they are gateways to understanding Japan’s soul, offering experiences that will not only broaden your horizons but also touch your spirit. Whether you are drawn to the rigorous discipline of mountain ascetics or the serene beauty of an island that has guarded Japan’s frontiers for centuries, prepare to be captivated.
Journey into the Heart of Asceticism: Tsuruoka and Dewa Sanzan
Our first profound exploration takes us to Tsuruoka City in Yamagata Prefecture, the gateway to the sacred Dewa Sanzan (Three Mountains of Dewa): Mount Haguro, Mount Gassan, and Mount Yudono. This region is the spiritual heartland of Shugendo, an ancient Japanese folk religion that combines elements of Buddhism, Shintoism, and animistic mountain worship. It is here that the legendary Yamabushi, or mountain ascetics, have practiced their rigorous training for over 1,400 years, seeking enlightenment through communion with nature and demanding physical and spiritual discipline.
Mount Haguro is unique among the three, serving as the entrance to the spiritual world and representing the present. Its impressive 2,446 stone steps, lined with towering cedars, lead to the main shrine, Sanjin Gosaiden, which enshrines the deities of all three mountains. Along the way, you’ll encounter the stunning five-story pagoda, a National Treasure that stands majestically amidst the ancient forest, reflecting centuries of devotion. This path is often the first step for those undertaking the pilgrimage, preparing their minds and bodies for the deeper spiritual journey ahead. The serene atmosphere and the monumental presence of the cedars create an immediate sense of reverence and timelessness, setting the stage for the profound experiences to come.
Mount Gassan, the highest of the three, symbolizes the past and the realm of the dead. Pilgrims traditionally climb Gassan in the summer months (when it is free of snow), experiencing its vast, rugged landscapes as a journey through the afterlife. The summit houses a shrine dedicated to the moon god, Tsukuyomi-no-Mikoto. The climb is challenging but immensely rewarding, offering panoramic views that stretch to the Sea of Japan on a clear day. The raw, untamed beauty of Gassan is a testament to the power of nature and its role in the Yamabushi’s spiritual quest. It is a place of introspection and reflection, where one truly feels connected to the cycles of life and death, and to the ancient spirits that inhabit these peaks.
Mount Yudono represents the future and rebirth. Its shrine, nestled beside a hot spring, is famously secretive, with no traditional shrine building. Instead, the sacred object of worship is a hot spring itself, from which a deity is believed to emerge. Visitors are asked to remove their shoes and approach the sacred site with utmost respect, forbidden from speaking about what they see. This secrecy emphasizes the profound, personal nature of the spiritual experience at Yudono, symbolizing a purification and renewal. It is the culmination of the pilgrimage, a place where one is reborn and cleansed, ready to face the future with renewed spirit.
The true essence of visiting Tsuruoka and Dewa Sanzan, however, lies in understanding and, if possible, experiencing the Yamabushi training (峰中修行, buchu shugyo). These are not mere hikes; they are spiritual practices designed to push practitioners to their physical and mental limits, fostering a deeper connection to nature and a profound sense of self-discovery. Traditionally, Yamabushi undergo rigorous disciplines such as meditating under freezing waterfalls (takigyo), fire walking, spending nights in remote mountain caves, and practicing strict fasting and silence. They wear distinctive white robes (shirōso) and a small black cap (tokin), carrying a conch shell trumpet (horagai) to communicate in the mountains.
While full Yamabushi training is reserved for dedicated practitioners, some temples and lodges in Tsuruoka offer condensed, accessible versions of the experience for visitors seeking a taste of this unique spiritual path. These “half-day” or “overnight” programs might include:
* Meditation and Chanting: Learning basic Yamabushi chants and meditation techniques to focus the mind and calm the spirit.
* Pilgrimage Walks: Guided walks through the sacred cedar forests of Mount Haguro, often incorporating elements of Yamabushi ritual, such as bowing and specific breathing exercises.
* Shōjin Ryōri (Devotional Cuisine): Enjoying the traditional vegetarian meals prepared according to Buddhist principles, emphasizing seasonal ingredients and a mindful approach to eating. This cuisine is incredibly delicate and flavorful, reflecting centuries of wisdom in food preparation.
* Waterfall Meditation (Takigyo): For the truly adventurous, some programs may offer a supervised experience of standing under a cold waterfall, a powerful practice believed to purify the body and mind. This is often the most challenging yet profoundly rewarding part of a condensed training experience.
Participating in even a brief Yamabushi experience requires an open mind, a respectful attitude towards the traditions, and a willingness to step outside your comfort zone. It is not merely a tourist attraction but a genuine opportunity for spiritual reflection and personal growth. You’ll be asked to wear simple white robes and follow the instructions of the Yamabushi guides, who are often monks themselves. The teachings focus on resilience, gratitude, and a deep appreciation for nature as a manifestation of the divine. This immersive experience offers an unparalleled insight into a spiritual practice that has shaped Japanese culture for over a millennium. It’s a chance to disconnect from the modern world and reconnect with something much older, much deeper within yourself.
Beyond the spiritual, Tsuruoka is also a UNESCO Creative City of Gastronomy, renowned for its rich agricultural heritage and distinct culinary traditions. The fertile plains and rich marine resources contribute to a food culture that is both diverse and deeply rooted in local ingredients. Don’t miss the chance to savor its exquisite seafood, locally grown vegetables, and the aforementioned shōjin ryōri. The region’s dedication to preserving traditional farming methods and culinary techniques makes every meal an experience in itself.
Access to Tsuruoka is relatively straightforward by train from Tokyo (via Shinkansen to Niigata or Sendai, then local lines) or by flight to Shonai Airport. Accommodation ranges from traditional ryokan to modern hotels, many offering views of the surrounding mountains or the Sea of Japan. Prepare for variable weather, especially if venturing into the mountains, and always check conditions before embarking on any extensive hikes.
Tsushima: An Island Steeped in History and Mysticism
From the mountains of Yamagata, we now journey southwest to the remote and captivating island of Tsushima, nestled in the strait between Japan and the Korean Peninsula. Tsushima is an island of unparalleled strategic importance throughout Japanese history, often serving as a crucial diplomatic and military outpost, a “bridge” between the two nations. This unique position has endowed Tsushima with a distinct cultural identity, a blend of Japanese and Korean influences, and a landscape dotted with historical relics and places of deep spiritual significance.
Tsushima is not a single island but an archipelago composed of two main islands (Kami-jima and Shimo-jima) and over 100 smaller islets, characterized by deeply indented rias coasts and lush, mountainous terrain. Its isolation has preserved a pristine natural environment, home to unique wildlife, most famously the elusive Tsushima Leopard Cat (Tsushima Yamaneko), a critically endangered subspecies found nowhere else in the world.
The island’s history is incredibly rich and tumultuous. For centuries, Tsushima was on the front lines of defense against foreign invasions, most notably during the Mongol invasions of Japan in the 13th century. It also played a vital role in trade and diplomatic relations, serving as the sole conduit for official exchanges between Japan and Korea for much of the Edo period. This dual role as both a defender and a connector has profoundly shaped its culture and landscape.
Among Tsushima’s most enchanting and spiritually significant sites is Watatsumi Shrine (海神神社, Watatsumi Jinja). This Shinto shrine is dedicated to Watatsumi, the god of the sea, and is renowned for its five torii gates, two of which stand majestically in the sea at high tide, creating an ethereal and breathtaking scene. The main hall is also built over the water, connected by a wooden bridge. The shrine’s mystical atmosphere, especially at sunset or sunrise when the torii are reflected in the calm waters, is truly unforgettable. It is believed to be one of the oldest shrines on Tsushima, with legends linking it to the ancient mythology of Princess Toyotama-hime, a dragon goddess. The presence of these gates submerged in the ocean connects the land with the vast, mysterious depths of the sea, emphasizing the islanders’ deep reverence for the ocean and its powerful deities.
Another must-visit is Eboshidake Observatory (烏帽子岳展望台, Eboshidake Tenbodai). Perched atop a hill, it offers a stunning 360-degree panoramic view of the intricate rias coastline of Asō Bay, dotted with countless small islands and islets. The view is particularly spectacular at dusk when the setting sun paints the sky in vibrant hues, and the scattered islands seem to float on a sea of molten gold. It’s a perfect spot to grasp the unique geography of Tsushima and appreciate its natural beauty.
For those interested in Tsushima’s historical legacy, Banshoin Temple (万松院) is a poignant stop. This Zen Buddhist temple is the family temple of the Sō clan, who ruled Tsushima for centuries and played a pivotal role in its diplomatic history. The temple is famous for its “Hyaku-gan-gi” (Hundred-step Stairs), an impressive stone staircase leading up to the graves of the Sō family lords. The grandeur of the temple and the quiet dignity of the ancestral graves speak volumes about the island’s past power and prestige. The temple grounds are peaceful and offer a glimpse into the island’s rich samurai history.
However, perhaps the most historically significant site on Tsushima, and a testament to its strategic importance, is the expansive network of fortifications, most notably the ruins of Kaneda Castle (金田城, Kaneda-jō) and the associated defensive walls (防塁, bōrui). These ancient mountain fortresses, designated a Japan Heritage site, were built in the 7th century to defend against potential invasions from the continent following Japan’s defeat in the Battle of Baekgang. Kaneda Castle is one of Japan’s best-preserved ancient mountain castles, offering a rare opportunity to explore a structure that directly reflects Japan’s early international relations and defense strategies. The scale of the construction, utilizing the natural mountainous terrain for defense, is truly awe-inspiring. Exploring these ruins allows you to walk through centuries of history, imagining the sentinels who once guarded these shores and the crucial role Tsushima played in shaping Japan’s destiny. The views from these ancient fortifications are also spectacular, providing a sense of both the vulnerability and resilience of the island.
Tsushima’s unique natural environment extends beyond the Tsushima Leopard Cat. The island is a birder’s paradise and home to various endemic plant species. Its clean waters are abundant with marine life, making it a haven for seafood lovers. The local cuisine features fresh fish, traditional dishes incorporating wild vegetables, and a distinct regional flavor influenced by its proximity to Korea.
Getting to Tsushima is typically by air from Fukuoka or Nagasaki, or by ferry from Fukuoka. Once on the island, renting a car is highly recommended due to the limited public transport and the scattered nature of its attractions. Allow ample time to explore, as the island’s beauty and history reveal themselves slowly, rewarding those who linger.
Embracing the Spirit of Japan: A Concluding Reflection
Our journey to Tsuruoka and the Dewa Sanzan, and then to the mysterious island of Tsushima, has revealed two profound facets of Japan’s spiritual and historical landscape. These are not destinations designed for fleeting visits, but rather places that invite deep engagement and offer transformative experiences. In Tsuruoka, you can touch the ancient spirit of Yamabushi ascetics, pushing your own boundaries and connecting with nature in a way that transcends mere sightseeing. On Tsushima, you can traverse centuries of history, feel the strategic pulse of an island that has shaped Japan’s destiny, and immerse yourself in a unique culture forged at the crossroads of nations.
At Secret Japan, we believe that true travel is about more than just seeing; it’s about feeling, understanding, and growing. Both Tsuruoka/Dewa Sanzan and Tsushima embody this philosophy. They offer opportunities to step away from the conventional, to challenge your perceptions, and to discover not just Japan’s secrets, but perhaps a little more about yourself. These journeys are not always easy – they demand an open heart and an adventurous spirit – but the rewards are immeasurable: a deeper appreciation for Japan’s rich spiritual tapestry, a profound respect for its history, and memories that will last a lifetime. So, why not venture beyond the familiar? The deep spiritual paths of Japan are waiting to be explored, promising an adventure unlike any other.
Japanist’s Nugget: Fascinating Facts from the Land of the Rising Sun
Here are a few fascinating tidbits to deepen your appreciation for the unique locales we’ve explored today:
The Dewa Sanzan’s “Three Mountains, One Shrine” Philosophy: While the Dewa Sanzan comprises three distinct mountains, their deities are collectively enshrined in a single main hall atop Mount Haguro, known as Sanjin Gosaiden. This unique arrangement reflects the syncretic nature of Shugendo, where the deities of the three mountains are seen as different manifestations of the same spiritual truth, encompassing past, present, and future within a single, unified worship. This allows pilgrims to complete their entire spiritual journey in one place if unable to visit all three peaks.
Shōjin Ryōri and Longevity: The vegetarian monastic cuisine of Dewa Sanzan, known as shōjin ryōri, is not just about abstaining from meat; it’s a culinary art form rooted in Buddhist philosophy. It emphasizes balanced nutrition, seasonal ingredients, and mindfulness in preparation and consumption. It’s believed that regular consumption of shōjin ryōri, combined with the region’s clean water and mountain air, contributes to the remarkable longevity of the local population, with Tsuruoka often cited as an area with a high number of centenarians.
Tsushima’s Unique Dialect: Due to its geographical isolation and historical connections, Tsushima has developed a distinct dialect of Japanese, often referred to as “Tsushima-ben.” It retains many archaic features of the Japanese language and also contains influences from the Korean language, reflecting centuries of interaction. While most islanders can speak standard Japanese, listening closely might reveal some truly unique linguistic quirks.
The Tsushima Leopard Cat’s Plight: The Tsushima Leopard Cat is not just a symbol of the island but also a poignant reminder of conservation efforts. With an estimated population of only around 100 individuals, conservationists are working tirelessly to protect this critically endangered wildcat. Roadkill is a significant threat, and islanders are very aware of their presence, often displaying signs warning drivers to slow down to protect the “Yamaneko.” Spotting one in the wild is incredibly rare and a truly special moment.
