Welcome to Secret Japan: Unveiling Hidden Gems!
Hello, fellow Japan adventurers! This is Japanist, your trusted guide to the most enchanting and often overlooked destinations across the Land of the Rising Sun. While the bustling metropolises and iconic landmarks like Kyoto’s Fushimi Inari or Tokyo’s Shibuya Crossing offer undeniable thrills, the true essence of Japan, its deep history, serene beauty, and profound cultural traditions, often lies just beyond the well-trodden tourist paths. For those with a keen sense of curiosity and a desire to truly immerse themselves in authentic Japanese experiences, there’s a world of discovery waiting.
Today, we’re embarking on a journey that perfectly embodies the spirit of “Secret Japan.” We will traverse from the historical grandeur and natural beauty of Tsuyama Castle Ruins in Okayama Prefecture to the ancient, therapeutic embrace of Dogo Onsen in Ehime Prefecture. While geographically distinct, these two remarkable locations share a common thread: they offer profound insights into Japan’s enduring heritage and provide unique, unforgettable experiences that extend far beyond a simple sightseeing tour. They are testaments to Japan’s ability to preserve its past while inviting visitors to partake in its timeless charm. Prepare to uncover secrets that will not only enrich your understanding of this incredible nation but also leave you with memories to cherish for a lifetime.
A Journey Through Time: Tsuyama Castle Ruins and Dogo Onsen
Our first destination transports us to Okayama Prefecture, home to the magnificent Tsuyama Castle Ruins, also known as Kakuzan Park. Once a grand fortress built in the early 17th century by Mori Tadamasa, a trusted retainer of Toyotomi Hideyoshi and Tokugawa Ieyasu, Tsuyama Castle was a symbol of power and prestige, boasting an impressive count of over 70 turrets and gates. It stood as a formidable stronghold for centuries, witnessing the ebb and flow of Japan’s feudal history. However, like many castles across the country, it met its fate with the Meiji Restoration’s decree to demolish feudal structures. Today, what remains are not the original buildings, but something equally, if not more, breathtaking: its colossal and intricately layered stone walls.
The imposing stone walls of Tsuyama Castle are a marvel of ancient Japanese engineering. Rising majestically from the earth, layer upon layer of precisely cut and carefully stacked stones form a complex network of foundations that once supported the formidable castle structures. Walking among these towering remnants, you can almost feel the weight of history and imagine the samurai who once patrolled their heights. The true spectacle of Tsuyama Castle Ruins, however, unfolds during spring. This is when Kakuzan Park, built on the former castle grounds, transforms into a vibrant wonderland as it hosts one of the top 100 cherry blossom viewing spots in Japan. With over a thousand cherry trees bursting into bloom, the entire site is blanketed in a delicate pink and white, creating an ethereal landscape that truly has to be seen to be believed. The contrast between the ancient, stoic stone walls and the ephemeral beauty of the cherry blossoms is simply stunning, offering an unparalleled photographic opportunity and a deeply moving experience.
Beyond the blossoms, visitors can also admire the meticulously reconstructed Bitchu Yagura (turret), which offers a glimpse into the castle’s original architectural style and provides panoramic views of the surrounding area. From the top of the castle mound, where the main keep once stood, you can gaze upon the modern city of Tsuyama, a charming regional hub that still retains a quaint, historic feel. Tsuyama is also known for its local delicacies, such as “Tsuyama Horumon Udon,” a unique stir-fried noodle dish featuring beef offal, offering a savory contrast to the refined beauty of the castle ruins.
From the stoic beauty of Okayama, we venture southwest to Ehime Prefecture, home to Dogo Onsen, a place steeped in myth, history, and the comforting warmth of natural hot springs. Dogo Onsen is not just a hot spring; it is widely regarded as Japan’s oldest hot spring, with a history tracing back over three millennia. Its legend intertwines with emperors, gods, and even inspired one of Japan’s most beloved literary works.
The heart of Dogo Onsen is undoubtedly the Dogo Onsen Honkan (Main Building). This magnificent wooden structure, built in 1894, is a living museum and a testament to Japan’s traditional wooden architecture. Its unique, multi-layered design, reminiscent of a grand palace, is instantly recognizable and has been designated an Important Cultural Property. The Honkan is not merely a sight to behold; it’s a functioning public bathhouse where visitors can immerse themselves in the same mineral-rich waters that have soothed countless souls for centuries. The building’s intricate hallways, classic tatami-matted resting rooms, and a special room famously used by the Emperor add to its captivating allure. The Honkan’s charm was immortalized in Natsume Soseki’s classic novel “Botchan,” solidifying its place in Japanese literary and cultural history. Though currently undergoing a long-term renovation that allows it to continue operating, its timeless charm remains undiminished.
While the Honkan is the star, Dogo Onsen offers more modern yet equally appealing bathing experiences. Dogo Onsen Asuka no Yu, a newer facility, draws inspiration from ancient Asuka-period architecture, providing a spacious and aesthetically pleasing environment with various baths and impressive art installations. For a more casual dip, Dogo Onsen Tsubaki no Yu offers a simple, local experience, popular among residents and visitors alike.
Beyond the baths, the Dogo Onsen area is a delight to explore. The charming Onsen Shopping Arcade (Dogo Shotengai) branches out from the Honkan, lined with traditional shops selling local crafts, sweets, and souvenirs. Strolling through the streets in a traditional yukata (light cotton kimono) after a relaxing bath is an essential Dogo experience, allowing you to fully embrace the leisurely pace of an ancient Japanese spa town. You can also visit the unique Dogo Giyaman Glass Museum, showcasing beautiful glass art, or take a ride on the iconic “Botchan Ressha” (Botchan Train), a charming steam locomotive replica that traverses the city of Matsuyama, adding a nostalgic touch to your visit.
Both Tsuyama Castle Ruins and Dogo Onsen offer a deep dive into different facets of Japanese heritage. Tsuyama provides a powerful connection to the samurai era and the ephemeral beauty of nature, while Dogo Onsen offers a serene escape into ancient traditions of healing and relaxation. They demonstrate that Japan’s true beauty often lies in these less-traveled paths, where history breathes and culture thrives without the overwhelming crowds.
Embrace the Timeless Spirit of Japan
Our journey through Tsuyama Castle Ruins and Dogo Onsen reveals that Japan’s appeal extends far beyond its urban centers and well-known landmarks. By seeking out places like the magnificent stone foundations of a forgotten castle, brought to life each spring by a sea of cherry blossoms, or immersing yourself in the ancient, soothing waters of Japan’s oldest hot spring, you’re not just visiting tourist sites; you’re embarking on a profound cultural immersion. These experiences offer a genuine connection to Japan’s enduring spirit, its respect for nature, its rich history, and its deep-seated traditions of hospitality and well-being. They provide moments of tranquility, awe, and genuine discovery that will undoubtedly become highlights of your Japanese adventure. So, when planning your next trip, remember that true magic often awaits beyond the crowds, in the secret corners of Japan, patiently waiting to be explored.
Japanist’s Trivia Corner: Unraveling Japanese Charms
The Art of Japanese Castle Stone Walls: Ishigaki
The magnificent stone walls of Tsuyama Castle are not merely piles of rocks; they represent a sophisticated art form known as “Ishigaki,” an integral part of Japanese castle construction. Unlike European castles that often used mortar, Japanese castles primarily relied on the skill of masons to fit stones together precisely, creating structures that could withstand not only attacks but also frequent earthquakes. There are several distinct styles of Ishigaki, each evolving over centuries:
- Nozura-zumi (Wild Pile): This is the oldest and most natural style, using rough, uncut stones with minimal processing. While seemingly haphazard, experienced masons carefully selected and interlocked stones, creating a sturdy yet rustic appearance. Many early castles and mountain strongholds feature this method, offering a glimpse into rudimentary but effective defensive architecture.
- Uchikomi-hagi (Beaten and Fitted): As construction techniques advanced, masons began to chip away at the edges of stones, making them fit more tightly together. While the faces of the stones remained largely uneven, the improved fit between them resulted in stronger walls that were less susceptible to collapse. This style became prominent during the Sengoku (Warring States) period.
- Kirikomi-hagi (Cut and Fitted): The most refined and structurally robust style, developed later in the Edo period, involved precisely cutting each stone to create perfectly flat, smooth faces that fit together without any gaps. This method produced the aesthetically pleasing and incredibly strong walls seen in many grand castles like Tsuyama, Himeji, and Osaka, symbolizing the power and wealth of the feudal lords. The sheer precision required for Kirikomi-hagi walls is a testament to the advanced engineering skills of historical Japanese craftsmen, ensuring longevity and formidable defense against invaders.
The Sacred Practice of Japanese Onsen: Beyond Just Bathing
Dogo Onsen’s ancient legacy offers a perfect gateway to understanding the profound cultural significance of “Onsen” (hot springs) in Japan. For centuries, onsen have been more than just places to wash; they are sacred spaces for purification, healing (known as “Toji”), and social gathering, deeply interwoven with Shinto beliefs and Buddhist practices. The act of bathing in an onsen is a ritual that involves strict etiquette, emphasizing respect for the waters and fellow bathers:
- Cleanse Before You Soak: The most fundamental rule is to thoroughly wash your body with soap and rinse off completely before entering the communal bath. This ensures the purity of the shared water. Designated washing areas with stools, buckets, and showers are provided for this purpose.
- No Towels in the Water: Small modesty towels are typically carried into the bathing area, but they should never touch the bath water. They can be placed on your head or at the side of the bath. Larger bath towels are used only after exiting the bath.
- Respectful Silence: While polite conversation is acceptable, loud talking, splashing, or running are generally frowned upon to maintain the tranquil atmosphere that is central to the onsen experience.
- Tattoos and Onsen: Historically, tattoos were associated with yakuza (Japanese mafia), leading many onsen to ban tattooed individuals. While this policy is slowly changing, especially in tourist-heavy areas, it’s always advisable to check in advance or cover tattoos if possible to avoid any issues. Some modern onsen or those catering more to international tourists have relaxed these rules.
- The “Toji” Tradition: Beyond daily bathing, “Toji” refers to the practice of therapeutic bathing for extended periods (days, weeks, or even months) to treat various ailments. Onsen towns like Dogo were once renowned medical centers where people sought remedies through the mineral-rich waters. The specific mineral composition of each spring dictates its purported health benefits, from skin conditions to muscle pain.
Understanding these aspects truly enhances the onsen experience, transforming a simple dip into a deeper appreciation of Japan’s holistic approach to well-being and its enduring respect for natural resources.
