Introduction to the Unseen
Konnichiwa, fellow seekers of Japan’s profound secrets! This is your Japanist, ready to peel back another layer of mystique from a destination you might think you know well. When you hear “Kamakura,” what springs to mind? Perhaps the majestic Great Buddha, serene Zen temples, or the powerful samurai legacy of the Minamoto clan. And you wouldn’t be wrong. Kamakura truly is a monumental city, steeped in the annals of Japan’s feudal past. But what if I told you there’s another, deeper current flowing beneath its historical surface, one that whispers tales of ancient gods, creation, and the very fabric of Japanese identity?
Today, we’re not just exploring temples and samurai strongholds. We’re embarking on a mythic journey, tracing the subtle, yet profound, echoes of Shinto Mythology, particularly those originating from the ancient lands of Izumo, right here in the heart of Kamakura. While Izumo, modern-day Shimane Prefecture, is renowned as the cradle of some of Japan’s most foundational myths—where gods gathered and nations were forged—its spiritual tendrils stretch far wider than you might imagine, subtly influencing the sacred sites of a city famously built by warriors.
Prepare to look beyond the obvious, for Kamakura is not just a city of samurai; it is a city where ancient myths breathe, often hidden in plain sight, waiting for the discerning eye to discover their profound stories. This exploration will illuminate how the spiritual undercurrents of primordial Japan, rooted in tales of creation and divine lineage, continue to resonate within the shrines and sacred spaces of a city defined by martial power. So, let’s step into Kamakura’s hidden lore, where every stone and sacred path has a story to tell, connecting us to the very origins of the Japanese cosmos.
Unveiling Kamakura’s Mythic Heart
Kamakura, while globally recognized for its samurai heritage, is also a profound crucible of Shinto spirituality, where the ancient ways continue to thrive, sometimes echoing the grand narratives of Izumo. Let’s delve into these sacred spaces and unravel their mythic connections.
First, we must visit the spiritual heart of Kamakura: Tsurugaoka Hachimangu Shrine. This iconic shrine, deeply intertwined with the Minamoto clan and a symbol of their rise to power, is dedicated to Hachiman, the deified Emperor Ojin, alongside his mother Empress Jingu and his consort Himegami. While Hachiman’s primary association is with the imperial lineage and military prowess, symbolizing the warrior spirit that defined Kamakura, it is important to understand his place within the broader tapestry of Japanese Shinto. Hachiman, often considered a protector deity of Japan, became a crucial figure during the syncretic period of Shinto-Buddhism (Shinbutsu-shūgō), where he was revered as a bodhisattva. This adaptability and integration are core features of Japanese spirituality, reflecting a fluid pantheon. Although Hachiman does not directly descend from the Izumo creation myths in the same lineage as Susanoo-no-Mikoto or Okuninushi-no-Mikoto, his veneration here illustrates how the powerful, evolving nature of Japanese deities established central points of worship that influenced the spiritual landscape of the entire nation. The very act of establishing such a grand shrine by the ruling samurai class reinforced a spiritual authority that drew from, and in turn shaped, the national narrative of divine protection.
Next, let’s explore a less obvious, yet equally fascinating, connection at Sasuke Inari Shrine. Tucked away in a serene valley, this shrine is famous for its countless fox statues, messengers of Inari Okami. Inari Okami, the deity of rice, sake, and general prosperity, is often identified with Ukanomitama-no-Mikoto, a child of Susanoo-no-Mikoto, a central figure in the Izumo myths. Susanoo, brother to Amaterasu (the sun goddess), is famously associated with the Izumo region, having settled there after his banishment from the High Celestial Plain and slaying the Yamata no Orochi serpent. His descendants include Okuninushi-no-Mikoto, the great god of Izumo, known for nation-building and as a god of fertility, medicine, and good relationships. The presence of an Inari shrine, with its ties to Susanoo’s lineage, subtly but surely connects Kamakura to the fertile, earthy deities of Izumo. Legend has it that Minamoto no Yoritomo, the founder of the Kamakura Shogunate, received divine guidance in a dream from an old man (believed to be Inari Okami) at this very spot before embarking on his successful campaign. This myth of divine intervention, guiding a leader to prosperity, echoes the primordial narratives of deities shaping the land and human destiny, much like Okuninushi’s efforts in building the earthly realm.
Our mythic journey continues to Zeniarai Benzaiten Ugafuku Shrine, a truly unique spot where visitors wash money in sacred spring water, hoping for increased wealth. This shrine is dedicated to Benzaiten, one of the Seven Lucky Gods, but here she is syncretized with Ugafukujin (Uga Jin), a snake-bodied deity associated with grain and prosperity. Uga Jin, often depicted with a human head and a serpent body, is deeply rooted in ancient Japanese agrarian beliefs and the concept of fertility. While Benzaiten’s origins are Buddhist, the underlying indigenous reverence for Uga Jin taps into a very ancient layer of Japanese spirituality that precedes formalized Shinto-Buddhism. The emphasis on water, purification, and abundant harvests resonates strongly with the themes of fertility and creation found in Izumo mythology, where deities like Okuninushi-no-Mikoto are pivotal figures in blessing the land with prosperity and life. The act of washing money here is not just about material gain; it’s a ritual purification, connecting one’s fortunes to the ancient, life-giving forces embodied by these deities, a concept profoundly rooted in the worldview presented in the Izumo narratives of a fertile, divinely blessed land. Minamoto no Yoritomo himself is said to have discovered this spring after receiving a divine message in a dream, further cementing the city’s foundation in spiritual guidance.
From there, let’s ascend to Kuzuharaoka Shrine. Located atop a hill, this shrine is less visited than some of Kamakura’s more prominent sites but offers breathtaking views and a tranquil atmosphere. It enshrines Hino Toshimoto, a loyalist of Emperor Go-Daigo who was executed in Kamakura during the tumultuous final years of the Kamakura Shogunate. While Toshimoto’s story is one of loyalty and tragedy, the shrine has become popular as a “matchmaking shrine” (enmusubi). This popularity for fostering romantic relationships and good connections directly mirrors a primary aspect of Izumo Grand Shrine’s (Izumo Taisha) fame. Izumo Grand Shrine is the preeminent shrine for matchmaking, with Okuninushi-no-Mikoto as its principal deity, revered as the “god of relationships” (En-musubi no Kami). The spiritual concept of ‘en-musubi’—the tying of bonds, not just romantic, but all forms of fated connections—is a cornerstone of Izumo mythology. The existence of such a deeply rooted ‘en-musubi’ shrine in Kamakura, echoing the spiritual functions of Izumo, beautifully illustrates the pervasive influence of Izumo’s mythic themes across Japan, even in a city so focused on political and martial power. It shows that even amidst the stern realities of samurai rule, the softer, life-affirming aspects of ancient Japanese cosmology found their sacred spaces.
Now, let’s consider another intriguing facet of Kamakura’s spiritual landscape. While not directly linked to Izumo myths, the presence of numerous Zen Buddhist temples, such as Kenchō-ji Temple (the first of the Kamakura Five Great Zen Temples), highlights the intricate relationship between Shinto and Buddhism, known as Shinbutsu-shūgō. For centuries, these two belief systems coexisted, intermingled, and often influenced each other, shaping the unique spiritual fabric of Japan. Many temples housed guardian deities (chinjugami) who were Shinto kami, and many Shinto shrines had Buddhist elements. This syncretism allowed for a flexible spiritual environment where gods from different pantheons could be worshipped together. The gods of Izumo, like Okuninushi, were often seen as incarnations of Buddhist deities (honji suijaku theory). This intricate weaving of faiths means that even in a Zen temple, one is never far from the underlying spiritual currents of Shinto, which are fundamentally rooted in the ancient myths. Kamakura, as a center of both warrior culture and religious devotion, perfectly encapsulates this profound spiritual symbiosis, where the echoes of ancient myths could resonate even within the tranquil halls of Zen.
Finally, let’s consider the pervasive theme of land-founding and nation-building (kunizukuri). Kamakura was essentially a new capital, built and shaped by the Minamoto clan. This act of founding and consolidating power over a specific land area has parallels with the great deeds of Okuninushi-no-Mikoto in Izumo, who, after acquiring the earthly realm through various challenges and negotiations (the Kuniyuzuri or “Transfer of the Land” myth), worked to build and stabilize it, introducing agriculture and medicine to the people. The very act of establishing Kamakura as a powerful shogunate, drawing on both martial and divine authority, reflects a microcosm of the grand nation-building narratives found in Izumo. The sacred sites within Kamakura were not just places of worship; they were spiritual anchors, legitimizing the new regime and connecting it to the ancient, divine order of Japan. This deep-seated belief in divine sanction for earthly rule is a recurring theme from the earliest Japanese myths right through to the samurai era. The presence of tutelary deities, whether Hachiman or local land gods, ensured the prosperity and stability of the nascent shogunate, mirroring the protective and productive roles of the Izumo deities.
Embrace the Mythic Journey
Kamakura truly is a city of layers, where the martial might of the samurai intertwines seamlessly with the subtle whispers of ancient Shinto mythology. Beyond the well-trodden paths to the Great Buddha or Engaku-ji, there exists a deeper spiritual landscape, one that connects this bustling modern city to the primordial tales of creation and the gods of Izumo. This journey into Kamakura’s hidden Shinto lore invites you to see beyond the surface, to appreciate how the foundational myths of Japan continue to shape its sacred spaces and cultural identity, even centuries after they were first conceived.
As you wander through its quiet shrines and historic sites, remember that you are treading upon ground blessed by ancient deities, echoing the grand narratives of Izumo. The very air is imbued with stories of gods shaping the land, guiding leaders, and blessing humanity. Kamakura is not just a destination for history buffs; it’s a profound spiritual experience, a tangible link to the mythic heart of Japan. So next time you visit, take a moment to feel the presence of these ancient stories, to listen to the whispers of the gods, and discover a Kamakura you never knew existed. It’s a journey into the soul of Japan, guided by the very origins of its spiritual universe.
Japanist’s Quirk Corner
Did you know that the way Japanese people count gods is unique? Instead of counting them like people or objects, gods (kami) are traditionally counted using the counter word “柱 (hashira).” So, instead of “one god,” you’d say “一柱の神 (hitohashira no kami),” literally “one pillar of god.” This counting method emphasizes the idea of deities as foundational pillars or supports, reflecting their crucial role in upholding the cosmic order and supporting human existence, much like the mythological pillars that are said to support the heavens! It’s a beautiful linguistic echo of their fundamental importance in the Shinto worldview.
Another fascinating tidbit: The month of October in the traditional Japanese calendar is called “Kannazuki” (神無月), meaning “the month without gods,” in most parts of Japan. However, in Izumo, it’s called “Kamiarizuki” (神在月), meaning “the month with gods”! This is because, according to Izumo mythology, all the gods from across Japan gather at Izumo Grand Shrine during October for an annual meeting to discuss the fate of people, especially matters of matchmaking and relationships. So, while other regions experience a “godless” month, Izumo becomes the spiritual epicenter, brimming with the divine! This unique custom perfectly illustrates the central and distinct role Izumo plays in Japanese mythology.
And here’s one more: When you visit Izumo Grand Shrine, you’ll notice that the standard Shinto prayer ritual of “two bows, two claps, one bow” (二拝二拍手一拝 – nihai nihakushu ippai) is slightly different. At Izumo Taisha, the practice is to perform “two bows, four claps, one bow” (二拝四拍手一拝 – nihai yonhakushu ippai). The reason for the four claps is believed to signify an even greater reverence, perhaps echoing the numerous deities (yaoyorozu no kami – eight million gods) that gather there, or perhaps simply to emphasize the special, primordial status of Izumo in the Shinto pantheon. It’s a subtle yet significant detail that highlights the shrine’s unique importance in Japanese spirituality.
