Welcome, fellow explorers of Japan’s profound heart! This is Japanist, your guide to the hidden gems and soul-stirring narratives that lie beyond the well-trodden paths. At Secret Japan, our mission is to peel back the layers of the everyday and reveal the ancient currents that still flow through this remarkable country. Today, we embark on a journey that will take us not just through landscapes of breathtaking beauty, but through the very fabric of Japan’s creation story and its imperial dawn.
For those of you who seek more than just picturesque scenery—for those who yearn to touch the very roots of a nation’s identity—this article is for you. We’re delving into two profoundly significant yet often overlooked areas: Takachiho, the mythical cradle where the gods descended from the heavens, and Kashihara, the hallowed ground where Japan’s first emperor is said to have ascended the throne, marking the beginning of its enduring imperial lineage. These are not merely tourist destinations; they are living testaments to Japan’s spiritual and historical foundations, offering insights into its unique culture that no mainstream guidebook could ever provide.
Prepare to be transported back in time, to an era where myth and history intertwine, where the echoes of ancient gods and emperors still resonate. By understanding these places, you’ll gain an unparalleled appreciation for the depth and resilience of Japanese civilization.
Journey Through Myth and History: Takachiho and Kashihara Unveiled
Let us first set our sights on Takachiho, a land shrouded in mist and myth, nestled deep within the mountains of Miyazaki Prefecture. It is here, according to Japan’s oldest chronicles, the Kojiki and Nihon Shoki, that the grandson of the Sun Goddess Amaterasu Omikami, Ninigi-no-Mikoto, descended to establish the earthly reign of the imperial line. This act, known as Tenson Korin (the Heavenly Grandson’s Descent), marks the divine origin of the Japanese imperial family and imbues Takachiho with an unparalleled spiritual significance.
The centerpiece of Takachiho’s natural beauty is undoubtedly the Takachiho Gorge. Carved by the volcanic activity of Mount Aso and eroded over millennia by the Gokase River, this narrow, winding gorge boasts sheer basalt cliffs that rise dramatically from the emerald waters. Renting a rowboat allows you to navigate the serene waters, providing an intimate perspective of the towering cliffs and the stunning Manai Falls (Manai-no-Taki) cascading into the river. The columnar jointing of the volcanic rock, resembling stacked hexagonal pillars, is a geological marvel that adds to the otherworldly atmosphere. As you paddle, the mist from the falls kisses your face, and the sunlight filters through the dense foliage above, creating a truly magical experience. It’s a place where you can almost feel the presence of the gods themselves, witnessing the landscape they once walked.
Beyond the visual spectacle, Takachiho’s spiritual heart beats strongest at the Amanoiwato Shrine. This sacred site is dedicated to the Sun Goddess Amaterasu Omikami, who, in a fit of pique after her brother Susanoo-no-Mikoto’s misbehavior, hid herself away in a cave known as Amanoiwato, plunging the world into darkness. The shrine stands on both sides of the Iwato River, with the main shrine on the west bank dedicated to Amaterasu’s spirit, and a smaller shrine on the east bank facing the actual cave, which is still considered too sacred for public entry. While you cannot enter the cave itself, a priest will lead you to a viewing point from which you can behold the very opening of Amanoiwato from a distance. The profound sense of reverence here is palpable.
Just a short walk from Amanoiwato Shrine lies Amano Yasukawara, an ethereal riverside cave where the myriad gods of the heavenly plain (Yaoyorozu-no-Kami) gathered to discuss how to lure Amaterasu out of her hiding place. Visitors to Amano Yasukawara leave small stacks of stones as offerings, creating a mesmerizing landscape of countless stone cairns that stretches across the cave floor and along the riverbank. This simple act connects you to centuries of pilgrims and the timeless tradition of honoring the divine. The sound of the river, the cool air within the cave, and the countless stone offerings combine to create a deeply spiritual and meditative atmosphere.
No visit to Takachiho would be complete without experiencing the ancient ritual of Takachiho Kagura. Performed nightly at Takachiho Shrine, these sacred dances are enactments of the myths recounted in the Kojiki, particularly those surrounding Amaterasu’s emergence from the cave. While the full 33-act Kagura is a special, all-night event performed during the winter months, the nightly performance offers a condensed version, typically showcasing four specific acts. The mesmerizing music, the intricate masks, and the graceful, deliberate movements of the dancers transport you to a primeval time. The performance of Yokagura, especially the full 33-act version, is an unparalleled spiritual journey that connects you directly to the ancient myths, offering a living glimpse into Japan’s profound spiritual heritage. It’s not just a show; it’s a communion with the divine, a link to the very origins of Japanese culture and spirituality.
From the mythical origins of Takachiho, we now traverse to Kashihara in Nara Prefecture, a place where myth begins to solidify into verifiable history, where the divine lineage of the emperors laid the foundational stones of a burgeoning nation. Kashihara is revered as the birthplace of Japan’s imperial system, the site where the legendary Emperor Jimmu, a direct descendant of Ninigi-no-Mikoto, is said to have been crowned as Japan’s first emperor in 660 BC.
The most prominent landmark in Kashihara is the magnificent Kashihara Jingu Shrine. Dedicated to Emperor Jimmu and his empress, Himetataraisuzu-hime no Mikoto, the shrine was established in 1889 on the site believed to be the former palace of Emperor Jimmu. Its expansive grounds, stretching over 500,000 square meters, are meticulously maintained, featuring majestic torii gates, a grand main hall, and serene ponds. The atmosphere here is one of profound tranquility and reverence. Walking through the vast outer precincts, shaded by ancient trees, you can feel the weight of history and the enduring significance of this sacred ground. The architectural style, known as “Kashihara-zukuri,” emphasizes simplicity and natural materials, reflecting a profound respect for nature and tradition. It’s a powerful reminder of Japan’s unbroken imperial line and its deep roots in history and mythology.
Adjacent to Kashihara Jingu Shrine lies Mount Unebi, one of the three “Yamato Sanzan” (Three Mountains of Yamato), which also include Mount Kagu and Mount Miminashi. These mountains were considered sacred and held significant spiritual importance in ancient times. At the base of Mount Unebi is the alleged burial site of Emperor Jimmu, known as Unebi Goryo. While archeological verification is complex due to the sanctity of imperial tombs, the presence of this site reinforces Kashihara’s status as the imperial cradle. Visiting this serene spot, surrounded by ancient trees and a palpable sense of peace, allows for quiet contemplation on the foundations of a nation.
Perhaps one of Kashihara’s most historically significant yet lesser-known treasures is the site of Fujiwara-kyo. This was Japan’s first truly planned capital city, established in 694 AD, preceding Nara’s Heijo-kyo and Kyoto’s Heian-kyo. While little remains visibly above ground, extensive archaeological excavations have revealed the grand scale and sophisticated design of this ancient city. Fujiwara-kyo was a grid-patterned metropolis, influenced by Chinese urban planning, featuring grand avenues, imperial palaces, and temples. It served as the capital for a mere 16 years, but during this brief period, significant reforms and cultural developments occurred, laying the groundwork for the subsequent Nara Period. Exploring Fujiwara-kyo allows you to literally walk on the ground where Japan’s first truly grand imperial capital once stood, offering a tangible link to the nation’s foundational era and a rare opportunity to imagine its former splendor. Interpretive signs and reconstructed foundations help visitors visualize the vast palace complex and the layout of this proto-metropolis.
Moreover, Kashihara serves as an excellent gateway to the broader Asuka Village area, located just a short distance away. Asuka was the political and cultural center of Japan even before Fujiwara-kyo, during the Asuka Period (538-710 AD). Here, you can discover a wealth of ancient ruins, including the Ishibutai Kofun (a massive megalithic tomb), the mysterious Kameishi (Turtle Stone), and the site of Asukadera Temple, one of Japan’s oldest Buddhist temples. This proximity makes Kashihara a crucial hub for any deep dive into Japan’s earliest historical epochs, connecting the mythical origins with the tangible evidence of a rapidly developing nation-state.
The journey from Takachiho to Kashihara is more than just a geographical one; it’s a symbolic passage from the realm of the gods to the establishment of human imperial rule. Takachiho embodies the mystical genesis, the moment when the divine touched the earth. Kashihara represents the consolidation of that divine mandate into a political and administrative reality, where the threads of myth were woven into the tapestry of a burgeoning empire. Together, they offer an unparalleled narrative of how Japan came to be, blending spiritual beliefs with historical fact to create a unique national identity.
Embrace Japan’s Enduring Legacy
Our journey through Takachiho and Kashihara reveals a Japan far deeper than the postcard-perfect images often portrayed. These are not merely ancient sites; they are living testaments to the continuous narrative of a nation born from divine myth and solidified by imperial will. From the ethereal beauty of Takachiho Gorge and the profound spiritual resonance of Amanoiwato Shrine, to the majestic grandeur of Kashihara Jingu and the ghostly footprint of Fujiwara-kyo, each location offers a unique window into the Japanese soul.
Visiting these places allows you to step outside the conventional tourist experience and immerse yourself in the very origins of Japanese culture and spirituality. You’ll not only witness stunning landscapes and historical landmarks, but you’ll also gain a profound understanding of the myths and historical events that continue to shape the Japanese consciousness today. The reverence for nature, the unbroken imperial lineage, the deep spiritual connection to the land—all these facets of Japan become crystal clear when you visit its true foundational sites.
At Secret Japan, we believe that the most rewarding travel experiences are those that connect you authentically with the heart of a place. Takachiho and Kashihara are prime examples of such destinations, offering not just sights to behold, but stories to absorb and a spiritual journey to undertake. They are quiet, profound, and utterly essential for anyone seeking to truly understand Japan. So, I urge you, step off the beaten path and embark on this incredible exploration of Japan’s ancient roots. Let these sacred lands speak to you, and discover the enduring legacy that continues to define this captivating nation.
Japanist’s Trivia Corner: Echoes from Ancient Times
As you delve into the ancient history and myths of Japan, you’ll encounter fascinating cultural concepts and historical facts. Here are a few tidbits to enrich your understanding:
The Yaoyorozu no Kami: Japan’s Myriad Deities
You’ll often hear about “Yaoyorozu no Kami” (八百万の神), which literally translates to “eight million gods” or “myriad gods.” This concept highlights the indigenous Japanese belief that deities, or kami, inhabit almost everything in nature—mountains, rivers, trees, rocks, and even abstract forces like growth and prosperity. This deep spiritual connection to the natural world is a cornerstone of Shintoism, Japan’s native religion, and you can truly feel it in places like Takachiho, where every natural feature is imbued with a sacred presence. It’s not a literal count, but rather an expression of the countless forms of the divine.
The Unbroken Imperial Line and the Divine Mandate
Japan boasts the world’s oldest continuous monarchy, with the current Emperor Naruhito being the 126th in a line traditionally believed to stretch back to Emperor Jimmu. This concept of an unbroken lineage, known as “Bansei Ikkei” (万世一系), is central to Japanese identity and history. The divine origin story of Emperor Jimmu, as a direct descendant of the Sun Goddess Amaterasu, provided the imperial family with a unique mandate, establishing them not just as political rulers but as spiritual leaders, bridging the gap between the divine and the human realms. This is why Kashihara holds such profound significance as the imperial cradle.
Kojiki and Nihon Shoki: The Chronicles of Ancient Japan
Much of what we know about Japan’s ancient myths, legends, and early history comes from two foundational texts compiled in the early 8th century: the Kojiki (古事記, “Records of Ancient Matters,” 712 AD) and the Nihon Shoki (日本書紀, “Chronicles of Japan,” 720 AD). The Kojiki is more focused on myths and genealogies, written primarily in a phonetic system that captures the ancient Japanese language. The Nihon Shoki, on the other hand, is a more formal and chronological historical record, written in classical Chinese, detailing imperial reigns and events. Both are invaluable for understanding the narratives surrounding Takachiho, Jimmu, and the establishment of the imperial state, offering complementary perspectives on Japan’s foundational stories.
Kami and Hotoke: The Integration of Shinto and Buddhism
For much of Japanese history, Shinto (the way of the gods) and Buddhism (the way of the Buddha) were deeply intertwined, often coexisting within the same temple-shrine complexes. This syncretism, known as “Shinbutsu-shugo” (神仏習合), saw kami being regarded as manifestations of Buddhas and Bodhisattvas, or vice versa. It wasn’t until the Meiji Restoration in 1868, with the implementation of the “Shinbutsu Bunri” (神仏分離) or separation of Shinto and Buddhism, that these two belief systems were formally decoupled. This decree led to the destruction of many Buddhist elements within Shinto shrines and vice versa, reshaping the religious landscape of Japan. When you visit ancient sites, you can often discern the echoes of this long period of integration before the separation. Takachiho Shrine, for instance, has long fostered a deep connection with its Shinto traditions, but the broader historical context of religious syncretism is always fascinating to consider.